Cleaning antique furniture requires special consideration. For example, don’t just clean old wood furniture like you would a glass coffee table. Using harsh chemicals or excessive water can warp the wood or leave permanent stains, significantly reducing the antique furniture’s value. The idea is to keep the antique in as original a condition as possible. You don’t want to remove the finish while cleaning!
There are several methods for cleaning wood furniture, but determining the type of wood, the finish, and the extent of any damage will help you decide which method makes the most sense. You can be more aggressive when cleaning hardwood furniture with an uncompromised poly finish. If I just picked up a piece from a flea market with a lot of buildup, I usually resort to the mineral spirits method below.
What I Like to Use
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Wood Furniture Cleaning Guide
The least abrasive and most gentle method for antique furniture is recommended. While mineral spirits is still a solvent, it’s surprisingly one of the more gentle options. This method will work for all types of wood, regardless of the condition or finish—just do not mix mineral spirits with water.
For other cleaning methods, be sure to use water sparingly on antique wood furniture. Excessive water can get underneath the finish, cause the joints to swell, compromise the glue, and, in extreme cases, warp the wood. This cleaning method does not require water for this reason.

Total Time Needed :
30
Minutes
Tools:
Supplies:
Instructions

Move the furniture to a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors. When using mineral spirits, always ensure adequate ventilation and avoid direct skin contact, as prolonged exposure can cause skin irritation and harmful fumes. Also, always wear chemical-resistant gloves when handling mineral spirits to protect your skin from irritation. Ensure the gloves fit snugly and are made of a material resistant to solvents, such as nitrile or rubber. Wipe down the furniture with a dry, lint-free cloth to remove loose dust and debris.

First, inspect the piece for noticeable signs of damage. Make a note of cracks, wobbly parts, missing veneer, scratches, etc. Next, determine the type of wood. Finally, see if you can figure out the wood finish and whether or not there’s visible grime or hazing. The finish might be wax, poly, or shellac, or the wood could be bare. If there are bare spots, you’ll need to be extra careful.

While wearing gloves, apply some mineral spirits to an absorbent cloth and test a small area to see if any finish is removed. If the cloth only shows surface grime, rub down the entire piece. In theory, mineral spirits are gentle enough not to remove shellac, poly, or stain from the wood. On the other hand, mineral spirits are effective at removing unwanted build-up. Keep in mind that if the wood topcoat is badly damaged, you may need to reapply a new layer after cleaning.

After your initial wipe-down, locate any area with a tough layer of grime, grease, or darkened spots. Apply mineral spirits to a steel wool section and gently buff away surface grease and grime. This step will dissolve stubborn dirt, wax, oil, and polish that dulls the original finish. Be careful not to damage the finish with too much pressure or with steel wool that is too gritty. I recommended grade #0000 for this purpose.

Give the piece a final wipe down with a dry, clean cloth and let any remaining solvent evaporate, which typically takes about 15-20 minutes. Once the project is complete, dispose of rags and steel wool safely. Remember, mineral spirits are flammable. Place used rags, steel wool, and other materials soaked with mineral spirits in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid to prevent fires. Check local hazardous waste guidelines for proper disposal to avoid environmental harm.